Saturday January 16, 2010

Ageless attire

Stories by KIKI CHOO

Whether a power broker, fashion lover or spy, there s a cheongsam look for every woman.

The cheongsam or qipao can be likened to the UFO of Planet Fashion : sightings are uncommon, but the appearance of a side-slit, high-collared number can send rumours of a new comeback through the ranks of style-watchers.

These days, it is more likely to be spotted at theme parties (Shanghai nights, anyone?) ; festive occasions such as Chinese New Year, when women want to affirm their ethnic credentials; anniversaries; and in the movies, from the classic World of Suzie Wong to Ang Lee’s Lust, Caution.

Amber Chia in cheongsam designs in various kinds of materials from Shanghai Sun. KEVIN TAN/The Star

In recent years, the strongest flash revival of the qipao has been in director Wong Kar-wai s art house hit In The Mood For Love. Maggie Cheung s impeccably-tailored wardrobe was like a glorious trip down memory lane to the 1960s heyday of the cheongsam.

Every outfit, made from vintage fabric found in Argentina by the costume designer, was more riveting than the last. All were sexy but decorous – the secret of the cheongsam’s appeal. Unsurprisingly, enthusiasm for the shapely stunner spiked among fashionistas after the release of the award-winning movie.

But, as with any newfound success, keeping interest alive is a hard act to follow. The problem is that the cheongsam is often fetishised as an object of desire rather than something to be worn in daily life.

“Some younger women seem to think that wearing the dress makes them look old,” laments designer Sunny Ng.

“When a woman is young, she has the figure, the looks, the right package to carry a cheongsam. It plays on the natural female form and creates the illusion of slim legs.”

Nothing beats this style for showing off cellulite – free thighs and shapely calves.

It’s definitely not a look associated with a wearer in her dotage; the fusty image is something of an irony. Far from being traditional attire, the garment – so strongly cherished as a symbol of the Chinese cultural identity – evolved from the long, handsome robes of the foreign Manchu conquerors.

There’s a theory that says that the tantalisingly high slits – a standard cheongsam feature these days – were inspired by the Charleston craze of the Roaring 20s. The high-kicking and fast-stepping pace of the dance demanded agility, and Shanghainese actress Butterfly Wu is the one credited with slashing the sides of the outfit for easy leg movement.

Thus was the modern cheongsam born.

However daring it may be, the outfit can feel out of place in the hurried pace of today’s T-shirt and jeans era.

“A woman in cheongsam must pay attention to the way she walks, take graceful steps,” Ng points out, adding that the outfit is usually seen at celebratory events to re-assure observers that tradition is well and alive.

“I have young brides who want a short version for the tea ceremony during the day, and a long style for the evening dinner. It’s popular with the in-laws as well.”

The outfit is suitable for every woman, he insists, citing the example of a young cheongsam-clad Middle Eastern customer he first spotted in a shopping mall in Kuala Lumpur. Wearing a cheongsam, Ng opines, is not about having the perfect figure, but “finding the perfect fit”.

“Lydia Shum (the late Hong Kong TV comedienne) used to wear a double X-large. I have done up to triple X-large!” Ng says.

But finding the dressmaking specialists with exacting skills required for a well-made outfit is literally like looking for the proverbial needle in a haystack these days. But that’s another story.

Shanghai Sun
Menara Hap Seng
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: (03) 2 144 6169

Cheongsam revival

A decade ago, Sunny Ng bravely stepped out of his comfort zone and into a “sunset industry” – cheongsams.

Getting more women to wear the cheongsam and finding the skilled workers who could tailor it to time-honoured standards has been a double-pronged challenge. Today, the racks lined with cheongsam and Chinese-inspired designs in Ng’s Shanghai Sun boutique speak of his success in this uphill battle.

All Ng wants to do is to restore the outfit to its glory days, and he’s not done too badly.

“I have customers who even wear cheongsam to work!” he exclaims.

Though Ng likes fabrics such as satin, silk and brocade – all ideal for channelling the inner elegance on formal occasions – he points out that the cheongsam in cotton and other lightweight material can be daily wear.

“I am planning a range in prints such as checks and geometrics that can look good for work,” reveals Ng, who produces two collections a year.

For all his passion, Ng’s fashion venture actually began by chance.

“I have always been interested in Chinese culture and art,” Ng explains, and so when he returned from England in 1987 after training in the hospitality business, he became an antiques dealer. When the adjoining shop in the hotel arcade fell vacant, he decided to take his passion to another level – with Chinese-inspired clothes.

“Everything has a Chinese element and often a modern touch, such as a bare back. Some customers want an open collar because the classic high-cut is restrictive,” Ng says of his designs.

He has travelled as far as Europe and India in the quest to produce cheongsam with a twist, often looking out for unusual fabrics. But, at heart, he remains loyal to classic qualities.

“You can easily find cheap cheongsam but a good one is about fine fabric and workmanship in cut and details that flatter every woman.”

The specialists he employs are vetted carefully for their skills. A Shanghai Sun cheongsam takes up to three days to make, and a beaded one requires up to two weeks. Ng believes that versatility is the key to bringing the Chinese style back into the mainstream. There’s one for every figure.

Just follow these tips if you’re unsure what would be suitable for you:

• A short woman should avoid boxy cuts and shoulder pads, as they stunt her appearance. A knee-length hemline is best for her. Shoulder pads are also a no-no for women with broad shoulders. They should opt for softer fabric, to soften the silhouette.

• A skinny woman can go for thicker fabrics such as double-ply silk, to give her more form and curve.

• Flabby arms can be covered with three-quarter-length sleeves.

• A short neck can be disguised with a lower collar, to help the neck look longer. A high collar can make a long neck look truly stunning.

• Avoid a high-slit hemline unless you are playing Suzie Wong at a theme party. The standard slit begins 22 in from the waist down.

• Remember also that high heels bring out the best in a cheongsam. Flat heels should be avoided, unless the wearer is going back to school. A cheongsam does not sweep the floor, because it is not an evening gown. It should be ankle-length and reveal the shoes.

• Those with figure issues, such as a heavy bottom and small top, or vice versa, should go for a cheongsam-collared top worn with skirt.

Article taken from The Star Online

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2010/1/16/lifeliving/5456435&sec=lifeliving